Have you ever heard of a place called Shinjuku Golden Gai? Located in a corner of Shinjuku’s Kabukicho, it’s an area of hidden alleys filled with small bars. Once you step into this maze-like area, you’re transported to a retro world with a nostalgic Showa-era vibe.
In this article, we’ll explore the charm of Shinjuku Golden Gai and introduce some recommended bars and restaurants for first-time visitors. If you’re interested in experiencing Japan’s Showa culture or having an unforgettable night, read on and discover the allure of Shinjuku Golden Gai!
1.What is Golden Gai?
Shinjuku Golden Gai is a small drinking district located in Shinjuku’s Kabukicho. It has a history dating back to the post-war era, and the wooden buildings lining the narrow streets give off a retro, Showa-era atmosphere, making it feel like you’ve stepped back in time.
The area is packed with small bars and snack bars, ranging from jazz bars and karaoke bars to traditional izakayas. The shops are nestled in narrow alleys, giving it a hidden, secretive feel.
1-1.History of Golden Gai
Golden Gai originated as a black market in the post-war period, and is located in Shinjuku’s Kabukicho district. It began as a street of food stalls in the late 1940s, and after the enforcement of the Prostitution Prevention Law in the 1950s, it evolved into the drinking district we see today.
During the 1960s and 70s, bars frequented by writers, filmmakers, and other cultural figures began to emerge, turning the area into a hub for subcultures. Despite facing redevelopment pressure during Japan’s economic bubble, a union of shop owners resisted eviction, successfully preserving the area.
Since the 1990s, the neighborhood has seen a resurgence, with younger owners opening new establishments.Today, Golden Gai remains a vibrant area, attracting both locals and international tourists with its unique charm and eclectic mix of bars.
1-2.Access to Golden Gai
Accessing Shinjuku Golden Gai from Shinjuku Station is easy. From the east exit of Shinjuku Station, it’s about a 10-minute walk. Head towards Kabukicho, cross Yasukuni Street, and you’ll find Golden Gai on your left—a cluster of small alleys with a distinctive atmosphere.
Here are some ways to reach Shinjuku Station from major stations and airports:
| From Tokyo Station |
|---|
| The JR Chuo Line rapid takes about 15 minutes to Shinjuku. This is the fastest and most convenient option without transfers. |
| From Shinagawa Station |
|---|
| Take the JR Yamanote Line to Shinjuku, which takes around 25 minutes. |
| From Narita Airport |
|---|
| The Narita Express offers direct service to Shinjuku in about 80 minutes. |
| From Haneda Airport |
|---|
| The Tokyo Monorail to Hamamatsucho, then the JR Yamanote Line to Shinjuku, takes about 40 minutes in total. |
1-3.The Charm of Golden Gai
Shinjuku Golden Gai is home to over 200 unique bars and eateries tightly packed into narrow alleys, offering visitors a nostalgic experience. The bars are small and intimate, making it easy to strike up conversations with the owners or fellow customers, creating a friendly and cozy atmosphere.
In recent years, Golden Gai has become popular with tourists from both Japan and abroad, with an increasing number of visitors from Europe and the US.
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2. Bars and Izakayas to Visit in Golden Gai
Navigating the maze-like alleys of Golden Gai is part of the fun, but it’s even better if you plan ahead. Below are five carefully selected bars and izakayas that are particularly welcoming to foreign tourists.
2-1.Dongaragasshan
Dongaragasshan is an izakaya specializing in kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers). With over 30 types of skewers, from meat to seafood and vegetables, the attention to detail in the oil, batter, and sauces makes for a delightful experience. The crunchy texture of the batter and the umami of the ingredients create a perfect harmony.
You can also enjoy seasonal ingredients at Dongaragasshan, making each visit a unique culinary experience.
2-2.Nomiya Shino
Nomiya Shino is one of Golden Gai’s long-standing institutions. It was originally run by the charismatic Ms. Shino, whose cheerful personality and warm smile attracted many regulars. Though Ms. Shino has passed away, the bar continues to be run by staff who carry on her legacy.
One of the most popular dishes is the pickled hyotan (gourd), perfect as a snack with drinks. Other favorites include assorted pickles, smoked daikon, and potato salad.
2-3.Seahorse
Seahorse is a cozy, hidden gem specializing in spiced liquors. Look for the seahorse sign and muster the courage to climb the stairs to this second-floor bar. Inside, you’ll find a stylish space with an L-shaped counter that seats about seven people, creating an intimate yet open atmosphere.
The real highlight here is the homemade spiced liquors. One standout is a whiskey infused with cardamom, which delivers a refreshing yet stimulating flavor. The bar also serves a variety of other homemade spirits and creative cocktails.
In addition, the bar offers homemade dishes prepared by the female owner, with a focus on traditional Japanese side dishes that pair perfectly with the drinks.
2-4.Miso Soup
Miso Soup is a casual bar where you can enjoy a comforting bowl of miso soup alongside your drinks. The ingredients change daily, depending on the season, and the cozy, casual atmosphere makes it easy for tourists to feel at home and strike up conversations with locals.
2-5.Bar OKINA
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Bar OKINA is one of the few bars in Golden Gai where you can enjoy a proper meal. The house specialty is handmade soba noodles, known for their firm yet smooth texture. Many customers come here to enjoy a bowl of soba as the perfect finishing touch after a night of drinking.
The friendly owner also prepares a variety of homestyle dishes, including an array of colorful appetizers. If you’re looking for something more substantial, the bar’s curry is also highly recommended. The drink menu includes a variety of colorful gin and tonics, which are particularly popular.
The warm, homey atmosphere, combined with the soothing sound of jazz in the background, creates a relaxing vibe that makes Bar OKINA a perfect spot to unwind.
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Conclusion
Shinjuku Golden Gai has a rich history, evolving from a post-war black market into the unique bar district it is today. The narrow alleys and wooden buildings transport visitors back to Japan’s Showa era, and each bar has its own distinctive interior and menu.
For first-time visitors, we recommend starting with Bar OKINA or Seahorse. Bar OKINA is famous for its handmade soba, homey appetizers, and wide selection of drinks. Seahorse offers a stylish, open space where you can enjoy conversation with the charming owner and savor homemade dishes.
Both places are friendly to newcomers, making them ideal spots to relax and enjoy the Golden Gai experience.
*This article is based on information available as of October 2024.
