Tenryu-ji Temple holds the highest position among the Five Great Zen Temples of Kyoto and is home to Japan’s first historically recognized site and Special Place of Scenic Beauty, the Sogen Pond Garden. Including this garden, the entire temple complex harmonizes with the lush nature surrounding it, offering visitors the unique tranquility and calm characteristic of a Zen temple. As a temple of the Rinzai school of Zen Buddhism, it is also a place for practicing Zen meditation and koan study, aimed at dispelling the illusions of the mind and pursuing enlightenment.
This article will explore the highlights of Tenryu-ji, including its admission fees and how to access the temple.
1.What is Tenryu-ji Temple?
Tenryu-ji Temple, located in Arashiyama, Kyoto, is the head temple of the Tenryu branch of Rinzai Zen Buddhism and is also registered as a World Heritage Site.
Tenryu-ji is renowned for its beautiful garden known as Sogen Pond Garden. It is designated as a national historical site and a Special Place of Scenic Beauty, where visitors can enjoy the scenery of each season. The autumn foliage is particularly spectacular, with the colorful leaves beautifully reflected in the pond. Nestled in the lush surroundings of Arashiyama, the temple grounds are enveloped in tranquility. Upon entering the main gate of Tenryu-ji, the hondo (main hall) features a ceiling painting of a dragon among clouds, created by Japanese painter Kayama Matazo.
Tenryu-ji is an ideal destination for those looking to escape the hustle and bustle of city life and spend some time in peaceful contemplation.
1-1.History of Tenryu-ji
The origins of Tenryu-ji Temple trace back to a Zen temple called Danrin-ji that once existed on this site. Later, the site was used by retired Emperors Gosaga and Kameyama to construct the Sento Imperial Palace and temporary palaces. Tenryu-ji itself was founded in 1339 by Ashikaga Takauji and was established to mourn Emperor Go-Daigo. A portion of the funds for its construction came from profits earned from the resumption of trade with China.
Throughout its history, Tenryu-ji has suffered numerous fires and war damage, necessitating multiple reconstructions. It was particularly affected by a fire during the Bun’an period and the turmoil of the Onin War. However, the temple began to flourish again after receiving donations from Toyotomi Hideyoshi, leading to the rebuilding of many of its structures. In the Meiji era, much of the temple’s land became property of the state, and the current temple grounds have been reduced to about one-tenth of their original size.
Entering the 20th century, many more buildings were reconstructed, shaping Tenryu-ji as we see it today. Additionally, three sub-temples survived the fires of the Genji era, retaining architecture from the Muromachi and Edo periods.
2.How to Access Tenryu-ji
To get to Tenryu-ji Temple from Kyoto Station, you can take the JR Sagano Line to Saga-Arashiyama Station. From there, it’s about a 13-minute walk to Tenryu-ji. Alternatively, you can use the Keifuku Electric Railroad’s Arashiyama Line and get off at Arashiyama station, or take the Hankyu Railway and disembark at the Arashiyama station on that line.
Access by bus is also an option. You can take city bus numbers 11, 28, or 93 to Arashiyama Tenryu-ji Mae, or take Kyoto bus numbers 61, 72, or 83 to Keifuku Arashiyama Eki Mae.
Since Tenryu-ji is located in Arashiyama, there are many tourist attractions nearby:
Togetsukyo Bridge | A bridge located about a 5-minute walk from Tenryu-ji, it is considered a symbol of Arashiyama and is famous for being a site of historical conflicts during the Hogen and Heiji rebellions. |
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Bamboo Grove | About a 10-minute walk from Tenryu-ji, visitors can enjoy the lush natural beauty of a towering bamboo grove. |
Nonomiya Shrine | This shrine, located about a 15-minute walk from Tenryu-ji, has been cherished for centuries for its benefits related to matchmaking. |
3.Admission Fee at Tenryu-ji
Visiting hours for Tenryu-ji Temple are from 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM, with last admission at 4:50 PM. Please be aware of this schedule. From November 16th to December 1st, special early morning visits are available starting at 7:30 AM for garden admissions only.
The admission fee for the garden is 500 yen for high school students and older, 300 yen for elementary and junior high school students, and free for preschool children. Visitors with a disability pass can receive a discount of 100 yen for both the individual and one caregiver.
If you wish to visit additional buildings such as the Daihojo, Shoin, and Tahoto |
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An additional fee of 300 yen is required in addition to the garden admission fee. The visiting hours for these buildings are from 8:30 AM to 4:45 PM, and access may be restricted on days with special events. |
For those interested in seeing the special exhibition of the Unryu-zu in the Hatto (Dharma Hall), |
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The Hatto features a special exhibition of the Unryu-zu with an admission fee of 500 yen. Normally, the Hatto is open only on weekends and holidays. In 2024, it will be open daily during several periods: March 2nd (Saturday) to July 17th (Wednesday), August 10th (Saturday) to August 18th (Sunday), and September 7th (Saturday) to December 1st (Sunday), covering spring, summer, and autumn. Please check the schedule before visiting, as it may be closed on specific days, such as during the New Year holidays. |
4.Highlights of Tenryu-ji
Tenryu-ji Temple is not only enjoyable for its walks around Sogen Pond Garden but also its various other attractions. Here are five highlights of Tenryu-ji that you should consider exploring.
4-1.Regular and Annual Events
Throughout the year, Tenryu-ji Temple conducts a variety of traditional Buddhist events and ceremonies that reflect the seasons.
For instance, on January 1st, to celebrate the New Year, the temple hosts a tea ceremony and blessing, along with the Shusho Hannyah Shugyo, a Buddhist practice session. On Setsubun, the day marking the beginning of spring, Tenryu-ji holds a Setsubun-e ceremony. In spring, April 8th is celebrated with the Kanbutsu-e (Flower Festival), commemorating the birth of Buddha. During the Obon festival in August, the temple conducts the Arashiyama Lantern Floating and River Segaki, a ritual to feed the hungry ghosts.
The year ends with the ringing of the Joya-no-kane on December 31st. Many visitors participate in this event to prepare and welcome the New Year.
4-2.The Daruma and Unryu Paintings
Tenryu-ji Temple houses two famous paintings: the Daruma-zu located at the entrance of the Kuri (monastery kitchen) and the Unryu-zu painted on the ceiling of the Hatto (Dharma Hall).
The Daruma-zu features Bodhidharma, the founder of Zen Buddhism, depicted with a unique artistic touch. Bodhidharma is shown sitting facing a wall, his gaze intense and piercing. His expression leaves a strong impression on viewers, embodying the profound concentration and determination associated with Zen meditation.
The Unryu-zu is a massive painting that covers the entire ceiling of the Hatto. It depicts a dragon in a dynamic and powerful pose, overwhelming viewers with its force and vitality. The dragon’s eyes are painted in such a way that they seem to stare back at the viewer from any angle, earning it the nickname “the dragon that watches in all directions.” The Unryu-zu is considered a symbol of Tenryu-ji and is a must-see for its stunning execution and impactful presence.
4-3.The Garden
The Sogen Pond Garden at Tenryu-ji Temple is a garden that was created about 700 years ago by the Zen master Muso Soseki. It is designated as Japan’s first Historic Site and Special Place of Scenic Beauty. This stroll garden, centered around Sogen Pond, features a layout that embraces the pond, with the grand borrowed scenery of Arashiyama and Mt. Kameyama across the Katsura River to the west, enhancing the sense of unity with nature.
Particularly notable is the view from the Hojo (Abbot’s Hall), where Ryumon Waterfall, featuring a large standing rock, is placed in the center of Sogen Pond. This arrangement is inspired by the Chinese legend of the Dragon Gate, which symbolizes a carp’s transformation into a dragon. Unique to this garden, the Koi Fish Stone near the waterfall depicts a carp in the midst of transforming into a dragon, showing an unusual and distinctive artistic expression.
The name “Sogen Pond” originates from an episode during its construction when Muso Soseki discovered a stone monument buried in the mud with the inscription “Sogen Ichitetsu” (a drop from the source of Sogen).
4-4.Shojin Ryori (Buddhist Vegetarian Cuisine)
At Tenryu-ji Temple, surrounded by a renowned garden and the seasonal beauty of nature, visitors can enjoy traditional Shojin Ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) based on Zen teachings at a restaurant called “Shaigetsu.”
Shojin Ryori was introduced to Japan from China during the Kamakura period and is considered a practice aimed at harmonizing the spirit with nature through food. Shaigetsu offers dishes made without animal products, using seasonally selected fresh vegetables, wild plants, and seaweed, making it a dietary practice known for its health benefits.
Shaigetsu is featured in the Michelin Guide Kyoto-Osaka 2024 as a Bib Gourmand restaurant. It is recommended to visit in conjunction with a garden tour, as a separate admission fee is required for the garden.
4-5.Zen Experiences
Zazen is a fundamental practice of Zen Buddhism. It involves sitting in a correct posture, focusing on breathing, and thereby calming the mind and eliminating distractions.
At Tenryu-ji Temple, a Zazen gathering and Zen lecture take place every second Sunday of the month at Yun’an, and it is open to the public free of charge. The Zazen session starts at 9 AM and lasts for one hour, allowing participants to experience the practice of Zen meditation firsthand. After the meditation session, at 10 AM, there is a lecture known as “Teisho,” which lasts about an hour. This lecture helps deepen the understanding of Zen teachings and philosophy.
Conclusion
Tenryu-ji is located in Arashiyama, a popular tourist destination in Kyoto, making it an essential spot to visit alongside other attractions such as the Togetsukyo Bridge and the Bamboo Grove Path. The temple is easily accessible, especially from the Keifuku Electric Railroad’s Arashiyama Station, which is just a short walk away.
When visiting Tenryu-ji, it’s important to note that an admission fee is required. Additionally, the temple can become particularly crowded during the autumn foliage season.
Tenryu-ji also offers unique experiences such as Shojin Ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine), Zen meditation, and viewing famous paintings like the Daruma-zu and Unryu-zu. If you’re interested in exploring these aspects, it’s well worth planning your visit to include them.
*This article is based on information available as of May 2024.